Growing Tomatoes at Home

Last week we had the joy of hosting a workshop run by Arian from the Canberra Seed Savers. The workshop was all about growing tomatoes at home. We have consolidated our main learnings from the workshop and from our own tomato growing experiences below.

Determinate vs. indeterminate

To start with, think about whether you'd prefer to grow determinate or indeterminate tomatoes (or both!). Determinate tomatoes are also called bush tomatoes. They won't necessarily need staking, although a single stake may help. They only grow to around 1-1.5 metres tall. Their crop generally ripens all at once, over the space of a few weeks, so it can be a good option if you're interested in preserving, would prefer to skip the garden stakes, or have space considerations in mind.

On the other hand, indeterminate, or vine tomatoes will continue growing through the season. As they grow, they will produce more flowers and tomatoes, which will ripen sequentially over a longer time period. They will require staking in order to support the vine, which can grow up to around 2 metres tall, or possibly taller.

Seedling size

When selecting your seedlings, keep in mind they are sold at nurseries in different sizes. If you are growing tomato plants from seeds, you want them to at least have their second set of leaves - what are called their true leaves - before you plant them out into the garden. However, the smaller they are, the more susceptible they will be to being demolished by a snail or other pest. On the other hand, if they are too big and have been in a small pot for too long, they might be root-bound, meaning they won't have as good a chance at developing a healthy root system.

Sun/positioning

Tomato plants thrive if they have lots of sunlight. Keep this in mind when selecting a place to plant them. SunCalc is a useful website to see how the sun will move across your veggie patch at different times of the year. Don’t forget to factor in the shade case by structures and trees. FindMyShadow is a useful resource to help with this.

Tomato plants grow surprisingly large and benefit from good airflow. Aim to space the plants at least 1 metre apart.

Preparing the soil

Prepare your garden bed by mixing through some compost and aged manure. You can also add a little blood and bone, which will add phosphorus to the soil and help the plant with producing more fruit. Blossom-end rot is caused by insufficient calcium. Adding crushed up dried eggshells to the soil can increase the amount of calcium available to the tomato plant. If you'd like to get more technical, you can also do a pH test to check the acidity of your soil. Tomatoes like a pH of around 5 to 6.5.

Planting

It is recommended to cut off the bottom branches of the tomato plant and to bury the plant deep enough that the soil comes up to around halfway up the stem. Aerial roots will grow from the buried stem, allowing for a much stronger root system.

Mulch

Mulching is beneficial on so many levels. It can help keep weeds down and helps keep moisture near the roots of the plants, allowing more time for the plants to absorb the water. It also helps regulate the soil temperature, and when it breaks down it improves the soil.

There are lots of mulch options out there. Sugar cane or pea straw mulch are commonly used in veggie patches.

Spread a thick layer of mulch around your tomato plants. Just make sure to keep a small gap between the mulch and the stem of the plant. If it is touching the stem, it could cause the plant to rot.

Water

Keep your watering schedule consistent when the weather is dry. You may find that watering every second or third day is enough most of the time, but when temperatures are in the 30s or 40s, daily watering in the morning or evening will keep your plants happy. The best time to water is early in the morning. This can allow the leaves to dry out before the hot sun reaches them, potentially burning them. It is best to avoid watering in the middle of the day for the same reason.

Staking

If you decide to grow indeterminate tomatoes, they will require staking, as they can grow up to around 2 metres tall. It is a good idea to put your stakes in the ground when you first plant your tomato plants in the garden. If you leave it until later, you might accidentally push a stake through a root that has had time to grow outwards from the plant.

Pruning

There is a lot of debate around whether you should prune tomato plants, and it seems very much a personal decision.

Pruning indeterminate tomatoes can help improve airflow and reduce fungal problems. However, keep in mind that the leaves are also protecting the fruit from sunburn, and allow the plant to photosynthesise.

As your plant grows a bit larger and develops more sets of leaves, you can start cutting off the lowest branches that might drag on the ground. If you decide to prune your plant, you will need to first identify the "suckers". If you look at a branch coming off the main stem, growing out between the branch and the stem you will see a smaller branch which is called a "sucker". While these suckers are small you can simply pinch them between your thumbnail and finger to remove them. If they have grown larger, you may need to use secateurs.

If you're not sure whether you want to prune, and if you have at least two plants, you could always prune one plant, and leave the other to do its thing. This way, you can compare the two approaches and see what works best for you.

Companion planting

The number one recommended companion plant for tomatoes is basil. Our other favourites for the veggie patch include nasturtium, calendula and borage.

Pests and diseases

Pests and diseases is an entire topic of its own, which we won't cover here. Our best overall suggestion is to keep an eye on what is happening in your garden and seek out advice about the specific pests and diseases you come across.